Categoría: Leather

Leather makers and EU Industries urge immediate action to conclude EU-MERCOSUR Agreement

Original content by: COTANCE

On January 11, 2024, COTANCE joined key EU industries, calling on EU authorities to conclude and ratify the historic EU-Mercosur Agreement.

The deal goes beyond trade and it’s an economic, social, & geopolitical imperative for the EU. In economic terms, it means access to key raw materials for green & digital transition, creation of tens of millions of jobs in Europe, strengthening rural area and access to a market of 270 million consumers.

For Leather, it also means a unique chance to reinforce the partnership with one of the world’s largest supplier of hides, skins and leather for the EU, and an opportunity to support the implementation of the tough EUDR standard entering into application in 1 year.

This is the full letter:

«Your excellency President Metsola, Your excellency President Michel,

Your excellency President von der Leyen,

We are writing to you on behalf of 23 associations representing a wide array of European industries and other businesses based in the EU, ranging from manufacturing to food-related sectors. We call on the EU and Mercosur leaders to rapidly conclude the trade negotiations on the remaining open points. In short, there is no time to lose.

Having the EU-Mercosur agreement in place will boost the integration of our economies and help to diversify our value chains both for imports and exports. This is key for the competitiveness of our export-oriented sectors that create tens of millions of jobs in Europe and provide an essential contribution to the prosperity and standards of living of European citizens. It also helps to promote the EU’s open strategic autonomy in times of rising economic security concerns by partnering with like-minded countries.

The agreement offers Europe a unique and timely chance to seize its first-mover advantage to partner up with one of the world’s largest economies. A deal helps to significantly reduce both high tariff and non-tariff barriers that negatively affect European companies’ chances to compete on Mercosur’s relatively closed market with over 270 million consumers. It is important to recognise the huge opportunities the agreement offers, which will help maintaining a strong industrial structure in the EU, including in rural areas, and thereby to safeguard the jobs and well-being of millions of European citizens. Given that the EU lacks substantial reserves of key raw materials necessary for the green and digital transition and the fact that a substantial proportion of global growth is expected to come from outside of the EU in the next decade, our industries need open export markets to sell European goods and services and procure raw materials at a competitive prices. The agreement is therefore an economic, social, and geopolitical imperative.

Committed to free, fair, and sustainable trade, we understand the need to protect the unique ecosystems of the Mercosur region. We believe that the EU-Mercosur agreement provides a very strong incentive and the right tools for collaboration to maintain the region’s sustainable development pledges, including the halt of illegal deforestation.

We, therefore, call on European leaders to act now and conclude and ratify the EU-Mercosur agreement, without further delay.

Yours faithfully, The Signatories»

You can read the original article HERE

A project demonstrates the better biodegradability of leather compared to other materials

Original content by: Lederpiel

The A3 Leather Innovation Center of the University of Lleida has recently presented the results of a biodegradability project based on compostability. Commissioned by Leather Cluster Barcelona, ​​this initiative consisted of a scientific study to analyze the compostability of leather and other materials. The project concludes with scientific data that leather has a much greater degradation than synthetic and artificial alternatives that simulate hides. Furthermore, those responsible for the work confirm that materials that imitate leather have less resistance and permeability than leather.

The study aims to determine the differences at a physical and chemical level, as well as other thermometric properties, of seven different types of finished leather and three imitations of leather: a material of synthetic origin (commercially, imitation leather) and two alternatives based on raw materials of biological origin (pineapple and cactus) that try to imitate leather in the fashion industry (commercially, called «vegan leather»).

The work includes a complete physical and chemical characterization of the different materials under study, applying standardized methods of the leather sector on an international scale. Also included is a study of accelerated aging of the materials in a climatic chamber and their subsequent characterization, to determine what impact these extreme conditions have caused on the materials under study.

Once the composting process is completed, a leaching study of the different compounds is included with the aim of identifying the substances that the compounds release after experimentation.

Finally, a study of the volatile organic compound content of the ten samples under study is included. The objective is to determine if the different substrates contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs) of greater or lesser volatility, or of greater or lesser danger to the user.

Conclusions
One of the most relevant conclusions is that during the composting processes, while the different samples of natural leather analyzed present a total or partial degradation in a period of 21 to 35 days depending on the type of leather, the samples of alternative materials do not present any indication of degradation after 90 days of starting the compostability test.

Regarding physical properties, the alternative materials to leather studied show lower resistance and lower permeability, a fact that positions these materials with lower durability and well below the intrinsic qualities and properties of leather and for the uses to which they are intended. which is intended.

«The results of this project provide information and value to estimate with scientific rigor that leather of natural origin has much higher degradation rates than synthetic and artificial alternatives that want to imitate it,» say the scientists at A3 Leather Innovation Center.

Next steps
The biodegradability project will not end with the presentation of the study data, but both Leather Cluster Barcelona and A3 Leather Innovation Center UdL want to scale it up at the Jorba industrial composting facility in Barcelona.

With the scientific arguments derived from this project, Leather Cluster Barcelona wants to claim leather as an example of a circular economy and demand the correct use of the term leather only for those articles of natural origin. The term leather is used in many cases, but not always respecting the nature of its origin. Animal hides, used as a raw material to make consumer products, is a sustainable material with long durability and compostability. The leather tanning and finishing industry, as an agent of the circular economy, values ​​this resource by preventing it from becoming waste.

«Leather imitations, both synthetic materials mostly made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyurethane (PU), as well as new fashion alternatives based on raw materials of organic origin from various industries, but produced with polymers derived from petroleum (the so-called vegan leather), are not biodegradable, recyclable or sustainable and will remain in landfills for centuries,» say those responsible for the project.

You can access the original article HERE

The tanning industry once again demands that the COP recognize the sustainable role of leather

Original content by: Lederpiel

Almost thirty associations related to the tanning sector around the world have signed a manifesto asking the United Nations Climate Change Conference (COP28) in 2023 to recognize the positive impact that natural materials such as leather have over people, the environment and the fight against climate change. The text expands on the one sent to the previous COP summit in Egypt in 2022 and highlights the ability of leather to optimize natural resources without causing negative impacts on the environment.

“Leather manufacturing can create employment opportunities and generate wealth and security in disadvantaged regions, both directly and in related industries,” states the Leather Manifesto, signed by leather associations. «Greater use of natural materials would create jobs, reduce waste and could be a direct driver of more sustainable agricultural practices,» the text states.

The new Leather Manifesto also points out that leather is an ideal option for a sustainable future, which encourages reuse and slow fashion. The leather industry hereby demands once again appropriate measures to correctly evaluate the life cycle of a product, taking into account all aspects of the production of any material and the promotion of products that are durable and can be used many times. Sometimes, repaired and renewed, as is the case with leather.

«Leather is the best material for beautiful and durable products that can be used by more than one owner, that can be repaired or renewed, prolonging their useful life, and that biodegrade at the end of their useful life,» says Gustavo González-Quijano, secretary general of the Confederation of National Associations of Tanners of the European Community (Cotance), one of the signatories of the manifesto. On the part of Spain, the Spanish Tanning Association (Acexpiel) and the Leather Cluster Barcelona appear as signatories of the document.

COP28 will be held this year from November 30 to December 12 in Dubai (United Arab Emirates).

You can download the Leather Manifesto HERE

And so you can access de original article HERE

Inflation continues to boost foreign sales of semi-tanned and tanned hides

Original content by: Lederpiel

During the first seven months of 2023, the value of Spanish exports of semi-tanned and tanned leather continued at record levels due to high inflation in recent months. On the contrary, sales abroad of raw hides fell again by around 20%.

In this way, according to data from the General Directorate of Customs, between January and July of this year, compared to the same period in 2022, exports of raw hides fell by 19.3% (19 million euros less), while that those of semi-tanned leather rose by 19.7% (8.6 million euros more) and those of tanned leather increased by 4.1% (10.4 million euros more).

If we compare the first seven months of 2023 with those of 2019, prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, sales of raw hides decreased by 14.8%, while semi-tanned leather increased by 57.4% and those of tanned leather, 16.4%.

Imports
Regarding imports of hides and leather, between January and July 2023 compared to the same period in 2022, foreign purchases of raw hides increased by 9.3% (3.9 million euros more); while the import of semi-tanned leather grew by 2.9% (2.1 million euros more) and those of tanned leather fell by 6.9% (12 million euros less).

Compared to January-July 2019, sales of raw hides grew by 46.2% and semi-tanned leather by 21%, while those of tanned leather fell by 18.4%.

Consequently, the leather trade balance in the first seven months of 2023 showed an imbalance in general terms in favor of exports of 118.4 million euros.

You can read the original press release HERE.

A formidable edition of Lineapelle Fair

Original content by: Lineapelle Fair

The 102 edition of Lineapelle, the most important exhibition dedicated to the global fashion, luxury, and design industry, consolidates its international leadership by positioning itself as an authentic beacon in the context of a complex economic phase characterised by a widespread slowdown and a limited possibility of defining production and commercial programmes.

Lineapelle 102 (dedicated to the Fall-Winter 2024-2025 season) hosted 1,330 exhibitors and welcomed a 25% increase in the number of professional operators compared to the September 2022 edition: +26% Italian visitors, +22% those from abroad, arriving from 109 countries, with a particular dynamism of those from France and China, Japan and South Korea, confirming the reassuring return of Asian buyers to the fair.

«All the exhibition sectors at Lineapelle 102,» commented President Gianni Russo, «showed remarkable vitality. Creativity and the ability to involve and stimulate the various operators were the strong points of a show whose international leadership cannot be questioned and is even stronger after this edition».

Lineapelle 102 reaffirmed the value of the exhibition synergy with Simac Tanning Tech (the international event with the most qualified offer of machinery and technology for the tanning, footwear, and leather goods industries) held concurrently at Fiera Milano Rho. A synergy that involved, in total, over 28,000 visitors.

The next edition of Lineapelle, number 103 (Spring-Summer 2025 season), will take place from 20 to 22 February 2024, again in the Fiera Milano Rho premises.

Splenda Leather in Milan

For Splenda Leather, this new attendance at Lineapelle Fair has meant a new opportunity to consolidate our international activity, expand horizons and perspectives, learn about the new trends in our sector and strengthen our personal and close relationship with our customers and partners. We are already looking forward to the next edition.

You can read the original press release HERE.

Leather: pioneering sustainability and circular fashion in the age of climate action

Original content by: Leather Naturally

As the world grapples with how we can reduce our impact on the environment and actively limit the impacts of climate change, we sit at a vital crossroads in our collective history. Leather is well positioned to be a meaningful part of the solution.

The European Commission has launched an anti-fast fashion campaign specifically designed to educate younger consumers about the negative impacts of fast fashion and to promote the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. The campaign aims to address issues of over-production associated with fast fashion and to prioritize sustainability and longevity.

The European Union is committed to serious action as part of its 2030 Vision for Textiles the cornerstone of which is sustainable fashion – designed to have a positive impact on people and the planet. Read here for more details.

With leather’s inherent properties of durability, reparability and longevity it represents the antithesis of fast fashion. The fact that it utilizes a by-product in order to create a versatile and premium material lends an additional benefit to its key position in the circular economy.

Increasing traceability expectations together with more and more stringent regulations have entirely shifted the modern consumer landscape. Consumers are far more educated than ever before on the provenance of the goods they purchase and the fact that the impacts of their purchasing decisions can be far-reaching.

Within this context, leather takes a by-product that would otherwise need to be disposed of (with its own environmental impacts) and using responsible, traceable and verifiable production processes, offers designers and consumers high quality products that can be repaired, re-cycled and that can last a lifetime.

How can we make an impact?

In addition to industry and government initiatives and regulations being pursued on a global scale, consumers also play an important role in effecting positive change by choosing leather. Please see below for some ideas as to how you can have an impact –

1. Quality over quantity

Invest in high-quality leather products that are durable and timeless, meaning that you can buy fewer items that last longer. Take care to purchase authentic leather pieces rather than synthetic or vegan leather alternatives which can contain high percentages of plastic, petroleum based products etc…which are damaging to the environment and do not have the same durability as leather.

2. Repair and restoration:

Leather products can often be repaired or upcycled and major brands are actively encouraging their consumers to repair their leather products. Many luxury leather brands such as Hermes, Chanel and Loewe offer to repair your leather products with the intent of extending their life and consequently reducing consumption and waste.  Some of these services include in-store artisans and even dedicated retail spaces which create an experience for the consumer and build brand value at the same time.

 3. Vintage & second hand:

Given the longevity of leather items, there is a strong vintage or second-hand market for leather products which – similarly to above – reduces global consumption and waste and can offer you a point of difference in terms of style and luxury at the same time.

4. Circular economy:

By choosing leather, you can actively support a circular economy in a number of ways. Firstly, by using a by-product of the meat industry, leather avoids hides and skins being sent to landfill and instead uses them to create beautiful and versatile products. In addition to this, you can take advantage of brands that may offer to buy back leather goods for a credit towards a new purchase eg… Mulberry’s circular Exchange program. Repairing your leather products and buying vintage leathergoods are also examples of how you can encourage a circular economy.

5. Timeless design:

Authentic leather products are often designed to be classic and timeless to encourage you to invest in pieces that you can wear for many years rather than to buy into fast fashion. You can also use apps such as Whering which can help you to digitize, curate and style outfits from your own wardrobe as well as fill wardrobe gaps sustainably!

6. Care:

Educate yourself about the quality and origins of what you are buying so that you can make informed choices about purchasing leather products. This will ensure you can keep them for many years and also take care of them well. For more tips on how to best care for your leather items please click here

Is leather “more than a by-product of the meat industry”?

Original content by: One4Leather

Although the internet is often seen as a handy way to spread misinformation and ‘fake news’, it can also be a great channel for two-way discussions. A quick search will give you countless pro- and anti-leather articles but scrolling down to the comments can help give a balanced viewpoint. A case in point was an article entitled Leather Is More Than “a By-Product of the Meat Industry” which makes a case against leather usage based on the incorrect suggestion that meat producers are incentivised to cultivate cattle for their hides alone. This is untrue: hides are simply a by-product of the producers’ main business – selling meat. It also recycles myths in regard to leather’s sustainability and animal welfare issues as well as overlooking the fact that most alternatives to leather are considerably less environmentally friendly in the long run.

What is most refreshing, however, are the comments the article attracted which were largely in favour of leather and anxious to point out errors in the piece. One commenter, for example, points out that fake leather alternatives are generally plastic-based. Such plastics do not degrade and will go on polluting the environment for possibly thousands of years. In addition, they correctly state that plastic pollution is responsible for killing wildlife “in horrible ways”. While the meat industry is subject to strict animal welfare regulations, ironically, it is the fake leather industry that could be said to be responsible for actual animal cruelty in this regard.

On pollution in the leather industry, one commenter reminds the writer that vegetable-tanned leather is a traditional alternative to the use of chromium salts. It has to be said, too, that even when chromium is used in the industry it is done under strict environmental controls anyway. The correspondent says the idea of just putting animal hides in landfill would be an “environmental insult” and that he/she knows “of leather designers who are vegan and produce pieces made from recycled or environmentally sourced leathers”.

Another commenter, who describes themselves as a vegetarian, criticises the writer for a lack of diligence in their research and the use of arbitrary statistics. The article’s author claims that “leather accounts for approximately 10% of the animal’s total value, making it the most valuable part, pound for pound”. However, this is simply not the case. According to a report from the Leather and Hide Council of America: “Although by-products have traditionally accounted for 8-10% of total live fed steer value, data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Livestock Marketing Information Center as of April 29, 2020, suggest by-products are averaging slightly below 7% of total carcass value, with hides hovering slightly above 1% of the entire value of the animal – perhaps the lowest percentage on record.”

There is space for pragmatism in the comments as well. Another respondent writes: “I don’t eat meat, and would love it if everyone else didn’t but, since that’s not going to happen anytime soon, it seems wasteful not to use the leather from those animals already previously slaughtered for meat. Besides, leather lasts quite a bit longer than the alternatives.”

This point is taken up by another person, who says in their experience “leather can last decades if cared for”. They go on to explain that even at the end of its usable life, “leather is biodegradable, so it is broken down into the earth with minimal chemical impact” – in stark contrast to plastic alternatives.

The claim and counter-claim narrative with this article makes for an interesting read. 

Read HERE the full article.

Stop the confusion. Only leather is leather.

Original content by: One4Leather

Leather Naturally reports that Cotance is calling on the European Commission to regulate the use of the term leather. It says that people are confused by non-leather materials appropriating the word ‘leather’ in a misleading way. At the same time, Leather Naturally welcomes at least a small step in the right direction: the European Council of Ministers approved an Italian decree protecting the term. This will impose a ban on the use of Italian terms for ‘leather’ to identify materials not derived from animals.

The issue of misleading leather labelling is a source of much frustration in the leather industry. COTANCE estimates the loss of business to European tanners due to these practices to be 1.7 billion euros per year – or about 20% of the sector’s yearly turnover.

While the industry welcomes healthy competition, it does not seem fair that manufacturers of synthetic alternatives to leather can get away with mislabelling them – especially as a recent report by FILK demonstrated that no single ‘leather alternative’ matches all of leather’s characteristics.

Other sectors such as textiles have successfully achieved legal protection at an EU level for particular product names. But when it comes to leather, EU consumers have no such blanket protection when purchasing articles sold as leather. As with the recent Italian initiative, some individual countries (e.g., Austria, Belgium, France, Italy, Lithuania and Spain) have addressed the issue at a national level, but generally, legislation remains fragmented – which invites abuse by smart (unscrupulous) operators.

Isn’t it time the European Commission acted to prevent duplication of national efforts by creating a level playing field for all players in the industry?

You can read the original post HERE.

Splenda Leather bets on solar energy in its production plant

At Splenda Leather, faithful to our permanent commitment to sustainability and environmental responsibility in the production process, we have made a significant commitment to self-consumption of energy at our production plant in Igualada (Barcelona).

Together with Grupo IONSE, we have installed a photovoltaic solar plant for self-consumption of 84.15 kWp, with a total of 153 solar modules of 550 Wp each. In this way, in addition to achieving significant savings in network consumption, we will avoid the emission of 28 tons of CO2 per year.

More information HERE

 

Photo & video: Grupo IONSE

Inflation triggers exports of semi-finished and tanned leather

Original post by: Lederpiel

During the first quarter of 2023, the value of Spanish exports of semi-tanned and tanned leather continues at record levels due to the high inflation suffered in recent months. For their part, foreign sales of raw hides again fell below 10%.

In this way, according to data from the General Directorate of Customs, between January and March of this year, compared to the same period in 2022, exports of raw hides fell by 10.9% (4.7 million euros less) , while those of semi-tanned leather shot up 37.1% (6.9 million euros more) and those of tanned leather increased 12.9% (13 million euros more).

When comparing the first quarter of 2023 with that of 2019, prior to the covid-19 pandemic, sales of raw hides fell by 12.5%, while semi-tanned leather increased by 94.9% and tanned, 27%.

Imports
Regarding imports of fur and leather, between January and March 2023 compared to the same period in 2022, purchases abroad of raw hides increased by 10.3% (1.8 million euros more); the import of semi-tanned leather, 8.2% (2.2 million euros more) and, finally, those of tanned leather, 8.1% (5.3 million euros more).

In relation to January-March 2019, sales of raw hides grew by 51.1% and semi-tanned leather by 28.1%, while those of tanned leather fell by 14%.

Consequently, the trade balance for leather in the first quarter of 2023 showed an imbalance in general terms in favor of exports of 56.2 million euros.

You can read the original post HERE.