Building resilience in the leather industry against extreme weather challenges 1

Building resilience in the leather industry against extreme weather challenges

Original content by: Leather International

The leather industry, a cornerstone of global manufacturing, faces numerous challenges from extreme weather events. Climate change has intensified the frequency and severity of these events, leading to disruptions in supply chains, production processes, and market dynamicsThis article explores the impacts of extreme weather on the leather industry, strategies for mitigation, and resilience-building measures that industry stakeholders can adopt.

Understanding extreme weather events and their economic impact

Definition and Scope

Extreme weather events include hurricanes, floods, droughts, heatwaves, and storms, which are becoming increasingly common due to climate change. These events can cause widespread devastation, affecting infrastructure, agriculture, and economies globally. Industries dependent on stable environmental conditions, like leather, are particularly vulnerable.

Economic Consequences

The economic impact of extreme weather is profound. Direct consequences include the destruction of infrastructure and loss of livestock, while indirect consequences manifest as supply chain disruptions, increased costs, and shifts in market demand. For the leather industry, these impacts can translate into significant operational challenges and financial losses.

The leather industry: an overview

Global Market Dynamics

The leather industry produces a range of products, including footwear, garments, accessories, and automotive upholstery. Key players include countries like Italy, India, Brazil, and China. According to Grand View Research, the global leather goods market was valued at approximately USD 407.92 billion in 2020 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.9% from 2021 to 2028.

Supply Chain Structure

The leather supply chain involves several stages: sourcing raw hides and skins, tanning, and manufacturing finished goods. The initial stages depend heavily on livestock farming, which is highly susceptible to weather conditions. Subsequent stages, such as tanning and manufacturing, also face challenges from extreme weather events.

Impact of extreme weather on the leather industry

Disruption of Raw Material Supply

Extreme weather events can severely disrupt the supply of raw materials. Livestock farming, the primary source of hides and skins, is particularly vulnerable. Droughts can reduce water and food availability for livestock, while floods and storms can lead to livestock loss and damaged infrastructure.

Case Study: Australian Droughts

Australia, a significant exporter of raw hides, has experienced severe droughts in recent years. These droughts have led to reduced livestock numbers and lower quality hides, impacting leather manufacturers dependent on Australian raw materials. The scarcity of hides has driven up prices and forced manufacturers to seek alternative suppliers.

Transportation and Logistical Challenges

Extreme weather often damages critical infrastructure, including roads, railways, and ports, leading to transportation delays and increased costs. For the leather industry, timely delivery of perishable raw hides is crucial. Delays can result in spoilage and financial losses.

Case Study: Hurricane Harvey

Hurricane Harvey, which hit the United States in 2017, caused extensive flooding and infrastructure damage in Texas, a key logistics hub. The disruption affected the transportation of hides and leather goods, leading to significant delays and increased costs for manufacturers relying on these supply routes.

Impact on Labour and Production Facilities

Extreme weather events can also disrupt labour availability and damage production facilities. Floods, hurricanes, and other severe weather conditions can displace workers, damage factories, and halt production. The leather industry, which relies on skilled labour and specialised equipment, can face prolonged downtimes and increased recovery costs.

Economic Losses and Market Fluctuations

The financial impact of extreme weather can be substantial, with increased operational costs and fluctuating market demand. Consumers’ purchasing behaviour often changes in response to economic instability caused by weather-related disruptions, affecting demand for luxury leather goods.

Case Study: Floods in Bangladesh

Bangladesh, a significant player in the global leather industry, has faced recurrent flooding, affecting tanneries and production facilities. The floods have led to production stoppages, increased costs for damage repair, and disrupted supply chains, impacting the global leather market.

Resilience and adaptation strategies

Diversification of Supply Chains

To mitigate the risks associated with extreme weather, leather companies are increasingly diversifying their supply chains. By sourcing raw materials from multiple regions, companies can reduce dependency on any single area affected by weather disruptions, ensuring a more stable supply.

Investment in Technology and Innovation

Technological advancements can help the leather industry adapt to extreme weather. Innovations in synthetic leather and alternative materials provide options that are less dependent on traditional supply chains. Additionally, advancements in logistics technology can optimise transportation routes and improve supply chain visibility, helping companies navigate complex environments.

Case Study: Sustainable Leather Alternatives

Companies like Piñatex and Modern Meadow are developing sustainable leather alternatives using materials like pineapple fibres and lab-grown collagen. These innovations reduce reliance on traditional raw hides and offer resilience against climate-induced supply chain disruptions.

Strategic Stockpiling and Inventory Management

Maintaining strategic stockpiles of critical raw materials and chemicals can help leather manufacturers buffer against short-term supply disruptions. Effective inventory management ensures continued production during periods of instability, reducing the financial impact of extreme weather events.

Geographic Diversification of Manufacturing

Establishing production facilities in multiple regions can mitigate the risks associated with extreme weather. By spreading manufacturing operations across different areas, companies can reduce their exposure to any single location’s weather-related disruptions, ensuring operational continuity.

Collaboration and Industry Initiatives

Collaborating with industry stakeholders and participating in initiatives focused on sustainability and climate resilience can enhance the leather industry’s preparedness for extreme weather. Industry-wide efforts to adopt best practices and share knowledge can lead to more robust and adaptable supply chains.

Case Study: Leather Working Group (LWG)

The Leather Working Group (LWG) is an example of an industry initiative promoting sustainable practices. By setting environmental standards and encouraging collaboration, LWG helps leather manufacturers improve their resilience to environmental challenges, including extreme weather events.

Policy and regulatory frameworks

Government Support and Incentives

Governments can play a crucial role in supporting the leather industry’s resilience to extreme weather. Policies and incentives promoting sustainable farming, disaster preparedness, and infrastructure development can mitigate the impacts of weather-related disruptions.

Case Study: EU Climate Policies

The European Union has implemented various climate policies and funding programmes to support industries affected by climate change. These initiatives provide financial support and resources for adopting sustainable practices and enhancing resilience to extreme weather.

International Trade Agreements

Engaging with international trade agreements can provide a framework for navigating trade barriers and disruptions caused by extreme weather. Agreements like the European Union’s Generalised Scheme of Preferences (GSP) offer reduced tariffs for exports from developing countries, helping leather manufacturers access new markets and maintain competitiveness.

Building a resilient future

Embracing Sustainability

Sustainability is key to building resilience in the leather industry. By adopting sustainable practices across the supply chain, from raw material sourcing to manufacturing, companies can reduce their environmental impact and enhance their ability to withstand extreme weather events.

Investing in Research and Development

Continued investment in research and development (R&D) is crucial for the leather industry’s long-term resilience. R&D can lead to innovations in materials, processes, and technologies that improve the industry’s adaptability to changing weather patterns and environmental conditions.

Case Study: Circular Economy Initiatives

Circular economy initiatives, such as recycling and upcycling leather waste, are gaining traction in the industry. These practices reduce reliance on raw materials and minimise waste, contributing to sustainability and resilience against supply chain disruptions.

Enhancing Disaster Preparedness

Developing robust disaster preparedness plans can help leather manufacturers respond effectively to extreme weather events. These plans should include risk assessments, emergency response protocols, and recovery strategies to minimise the impact of weather-related disruptions.

Case Study: Business Continuity Planning

Companies like Nike and Adidas have implemented comprehensive business continuity plans to address potential disruptions, including extreme weather. These plans ensure that critical operations can continue, reducing the financial and operational impact of such events.

Conclusion: adapting to a changing climate

Extreme weather events pose significant challenges to the leather industry, from disrupting supply chains to increasing operational costs. However, the industry has shown resilience through diversification, innovation, and collaboration. By embracing sustainability, investing in technology, and enhancing disaster preparedness, the leather industry can navigate the challenges posed by extreme weather and build a more resilient future.

As climate change continues to impact global weather patterns, the leather industry must remain agile and proactive. By anticipating potential disruptions and implementing robust strategies, leather manufacturers can safeguard their operations and continue to thrive in an increasingly volatile world. Through concerted efforts to enhance supply chain resilience, adopt sustainable practices, and leverage technological advancements, the leather industry can build a strong foundation capable of withstanding future extreme weather events.

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Biodegradability of leather: another reason to embrace it 3

Biodegradability of leather: another reason to embrace it

Original content by: COTANCE

We often hear about massive floating «islands» of plastic polluting our oceans, yet leather is never part of that conversation. The reason is simple: leather is a natural and biodegradable material. Unlike plastic, which lingers in the environment for centuries, leather decomposes naturally at the end of its life cycle.

The Science of Leather Biodegradability

When produced using natural or bio-based tanning agents and biodegradable additives, leather can break down in industrial composting within just 20 days, a timeframe comparable to organic waste. While all materials eventually degrade, what sets leather apart is its ability to decompose quickly and safely, transforming into compost that enriches the soil with vital nutrients. This characteristic not only positions leather as a valuable element of the circular economy but also makes it one of the most sustainable materials in fashion.

Biodegradability refers to the process in which microorganisms break down organic materials into simpler components like carbon dioxide, water, and ammonia. Compostability, a measure of biodegradation, ensures that a material decomposes into biomass without releasing harmful substances. The speed and environmental impact of leather’s degradation depend on the tanning chemistry used. The industry is making remarkable progress in creating fully biodegradable leather, but even conventionally produced European leather demonstrates the ability to decompose naturally.

Scientific Evidence Supporting Leather’s Sustainability

Recent studies confirm leather’s superior biodegradability compared to synthetic and plant-based alternatives. Research conducted by A3 Centro de Innovación del Cuero, Universitat de Lleida, and the University of Ege revealed that specially treated authentic leather degraded entirely within 21-25 days, while wet blue leather took slightly longer, between 31-35 days. In stark contrast, synthetic alternatives such as Piñatex® and Desserto® showed no signs of decomposition even after 90 days, highlighting leather’s distinct advantage in minimizing long-term waste.

Another investigation by Karl and Inge Flowers at Authenticae Limited demonstrated that vegetable-tanned leather compost significantly enhanced plant growth by 74%, proving its potential to enrich soil. Meanwhile, the majority of faux leather alternatives displayed poor biodegradability, raising concerns about their environmental footprint. Additional research from INESCOP and the University of Alicante underscored the potential of eco-friendly leather finishes to further reduce the material’s environmental impact, aligning leather production with circular economy goals. Some of these finishes not only showed high biodegradability but also contributed to improved plant growth, reinforcing leather’s role in sustainable practices.

A Material for the Future

Leather strikes a unique balance between durability and biodegradability. With its ability to transform waste into a resource, support closed-loop production cycles, and return naturally to the environment at the end of its life, leather stands out as one of the most sustainable materials available. Its properties make it a key player in achieving the European Green Deal’s objectives, supporting eco-design regulations and waste management initiatives.

Choosing leather means choosing a material that respects the planet.

The leather industry amid societal polarisation: navigating challenges and opportunities 5

The leather industry amid societal polarisation: navigating challenges and opportunities

Original content by: Leather International

The leather industry, a vital sector contributing significantly to global economies, is experiencing an era of profound change. Societal polarisation, driven by divergent views on environmental sustainability, animal rights, and economic priorities, is reshaping the landscape of leather production and consumption. This article explores how these polarising forces impact the leather industry, examining both the challenges and opportunities they present.

Environmental impact and sustainable practices

The environmental impact of leather production is a major point of contention. Traditional leather processing is resource-intensive, consuming vast amounts of water and energy, and generating significant waste and pollution. The tanning process, in particular, has come under scrutiny for its use of hazardous chemicals such as chromium, which can contaminate water supplies and pose health risks to workers and surrounding communities.

To address these concerns, the industry is increasingly adopting sustainable practices. Leading companies are investing in cleaner technologies, such as vegetable tanning and water-efficient processing methods. Additionally, the development of bio-based and recycled leather alternatives is gaining traction. These innovations not only reduce environmental impact but also align with the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly products.

Animal welfare and ethical considerations

The ethical treatment of animals in the leather industry is another polarising issue. Animal rights organisations, such as PETA and the Humane Society, have campaigned vigorously against the use of animal-derived materials, advocating for cruelty-free and vegan alternatives. These efforts have resonated with a growing segment of consumers who prioritise animal welfare and seek out ethical products.

In response, the industry is exploring alternatives to traditional leather. Materials such as mushroom leather (mycelium), pineapple leather (Piñatex), and lab-grown leather are gaining popularity. These innovations not only cater to ethical concerns but also offer unique textures and properties that differentiate them from conventional leather.

Economic implications and workforce considerations

The leather industry is a significant economic contributor, particularly in developing countries where it provides employment and supports livelihoods. However, the push for sustainable and ethical practices can create economic challenges. Transitioning to cleaner technologies and alternative materials often requires substantial investment, which can be burdensome for small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in the leather supply chain.

Moreover, the shift towards automation and technological advancements in leather processing may lead to job displacement. As the industry adopts more efficient production methods, there is a risk that traditional roles may become obsolete, impacting workers’ livelihoods.

Balancing economic growth and sustainability

Balancing economic growth with sustainability is a complex task. Governments and industry leaders must navigate these challenges to ensure the continued viability of the leather sector while promoting ethical and environmental responsibility. Initiatives such as public-private partnerships, financial incentives for sustainable practices, and workforce retraining programmes can help mitigate the economic impact of these transitions.

Consumer trends and market dynamics

Consumer preferences play a pivotal role in shaping the leather industry. As societal polarisation influences buying behaviour, understanding and responding to these trends is crucial for businesses. Several key trends are currently impacting the market:

  1. Sustainability and Transparency: Consumers are increasingly demanding transparency in supply chains and the sustainability of products. Brands that provide clear information about their sourcing and production practices are gaining a competitive edge.
  2. Ethical Consumption: The rise of ethical consumption has led to a growing market for vegan and cruelty-free products. Brands that align with these values are attracting a loyal customer base.
  3. Quality and Craftsmanship: Despite the push for sustainability, there remains a strong market for high-quality, durable leather goods. Consumers appreciate the craftsmanship and longevity of well-made leather products.

Industry response and innovation

The leather industry is responding to these trends through innovation and strategic initiatives. Companies are investing in research and development to create sustainable and ethical products without compromising on quality. Collaborations with technology providers and material scientists are driving the development of novel materials and processing techniques.

Conclusion: navigating a polarised future

The leather industry stands at a crossroads, shaped by societal polarisation and the urgent need for sustainable and ethical practices. While these challenges are significant, they also present opportunities for innovation and growth. By embracing sustainable technologies, exploring alternative materials, and responding to evolving consumer preferences, the industry can navigate this polarised landscape and build a resilient and responsible future.

You can access the original article HERE

Leather is not a driver of deforestation 7

Leather is not a driver of deforestation

Original content by: La Conceria

While “combating deforestation is a global priority” – as it obviously is – the truth is that leather should not be considered as a driver of the issue. A truth that has been repeatedly states, demonstrated and forcefully reiterated yesterday in Geneva by UNIC – Italian Tanneries. Location: the Palais des Nations. Occasion. The Deforestation-Free Trade Dialogue organized by UNECE (United Nations Economic Commission for Europe), one of the 5 “regional commissions” of the United Nations. A body whose mission is “to foster pan-European economic integration”.

Leather is not a driver of deforestation

On Nov. 13 2024, UNIC was hosted at UNECE’s Deforestation-Free Trade Dialogue, in the afternoon panel “Learning from current experiences by markets actors: possible challenges and solutions”. The experience and truth of Italian leather in relation to the implementation of the EUDR Regulation was presented and explored in depth by President Fabrizio Nuti (photo right) with a speech that from the very title set the record straight: Why leather is not a driver of deforestation: social and economic consequences”.

Three key points

Three, in particular, were the points of Nuti’s talk. First: data in hand, UNIC has shown that leather is not a cause of deforestation. Second: the EUDR could a very dangerous boomerang. The reason? By effectively blocking European tanning production, it does not prevent products made from hides coming into Europe from deforested areas. Third, the list of countries deemed to be at risk of deforestation needs to be clarified and updated, as it’s currently not yet defined.

An important opportunity

UNIC’s presence at the UNECE table, and in front of a parterre of speakers and delegates from all over the world, presented an important opportunity to give visibility and authority to its clear position on the EUDR. A position shared by the entire European tanning industry and by many other institutions (including international ones) that have expressed strong critical opinions against this regulation. Not because of what it’s trying to achieve, which is an objective shared by all. But because of the current way of working of its implementation.

You can access the original article HERE

Durability versus fast fashion 9

Durability versus fast fashion

Original content by: Lederpiel

The international leather (Cotance), footwear (CEC), fur (IFF) and wool (IWTO) associations have joined forces to defend natural and durable materials against fast fashion. These four organisations have produced a joint statement addressed to the Technical Secretariat of the Product Environmental Footprint Standards Category (Pefcr) on Clothing and Footwear (A&F). In it they express their disagreement with the current method for calculating the “service life” of clothing and shoes. According to Cotance, CEC, IFF and IWTO, the main concern is the precedent that this calculation method is setting in the broader EU regulatory context. “An immature methodology for calculating the environmental footprint of clothing and footwear products risks having highly damaging effects on the diversity and competitiveness of industries in the ecosystem”, the associations say.

What is wrong with current durability metrics for clothing and footwear? According to these four representative organisations for leather, footwear, fur and wool, they penalise natural and longer-lasting materials, and consumer products made from them.

Joint statement

The main concern lies in the unit of measurement adopted by the Technical Secretariat, which develops the methodology and the representativeness of the default values ​​for the durability of clothing and footwear products taken from Higg.

The signatories of the joint statement oppose the measure being expressed in a number of “uses” rather than in real time in “years”. This approach, taken from the Higg Product Module, “does not reflect the real lifespan of products or the opinion of all stakeholders in the sector”, explain the four associations. In addition, neither the product segmentation nor the default values ​​for service life take into account the unique properties of the different materials. “As a result, the method favours products that are purchased and thrown away after just a few ‘uses’ and penalises those designed to last much longer than the methodology can deliver,” the signatories of the joint statement say.

The organisations representing the views of the footwear, fur, leather and wool industries propose that service life be expressed in years rather than uses and that the durability characteristics that materials confer on products be appropriately integrated into product segmentation or the reference flow. “This change would provide a more accurate and meaningful assessment of a product’s lifespan, helping both consumers and manufacturers make informed decisions,” they say.

You can access the original article HERE

September, a key month in the positioning of leather as an example of Sustainable Fashion 11

September, a key month in the positioning of leather as an example of Sustainable Fashion

Original content by: Leather Cluster Barcelona

Last September, various events took place that gave visibility to leather and its industry within the Sustainable Fashion approach, highlighting the long life and longevity of articles made from leather.

On the one hand, Lineapelle, one of the oldest and most prestigious international leather fairs in the world, was held from 17 to 19 September in Milan, dedicated to leather, accessories and components for the footwear, leather goods, clothing and furniture industries.

The 104th edition of Lineapelle brought together 1,259 exhibitors from 43 countries in more than 45,000 square metres of exhibition space, consolidating the Italian fair in its position as a global platform for the fashion, luxury and design industries.

A total of ten tanning companies associated with Leather Cluster Barcelona have taken part in Lineapelle, exhibiting their leather goods in this great international showcase where professional fashion experts from all over the world meet to look for new products, trends and accessories.

The tanneries Aqualata, Badia, Colomer 1792, Combalia, Despell, La Doma, Miret, Morera Pell, Riba Guixà and Splenda have exhibited in one of the world’s fashion capitals, Milan, claiming leather as an example of Circular Economy and Sustainable Fashion.

But Lineapelle has not been the only event to defend leather as a benchmark for Sustainable Fashion. On September 9 and 10, the Sustainable Leather Forum was organized. Sustainable Leather Forum is the first international event dedicated to sharing the best practices of Corporate Social Responsibility in the leather sector and its ecosystem. Held in Paris, it brought together more than 400 international participants to discuss social, environmental and economic issues facing the leather industry over two days of keynote speeches, panel discussions and networking sessions.

Also in the Sustainable Fashion key and at a global level, OXFAM, the international cooperation NGO that works to end poverty and inequality in the world, has promoted this month the Second Hand September campaign, encouraging us all to position ourselves against the fast fashion consumption model. ⁠

All these events take place in the midst of a debate in society about production models and the use of sustainable items in the fashion industry. In this sense, one of the global objectives to protect the planet of the United Nations Organization is responsible production and consumption. The UN, in its 12th Sustainable Development Goal, calls on governments, the private sector and society to increase resource efficiency for environmental preservation, promoting more sustainable consumption styles.

The current fashion model, based on fast fashion, is linked to hyperconsumption that has important environmental consequences. In this context, leather is positioned as a clear example of Circular Economy and Sustainable Fashion to reduce the negative impacts that fast fashion generates.

The leather industry contributes to responsible and sustainable consumption, revaluing a by-product so that it does not become waste, to produce durable consumer goods. In fact, a leather item can last a lifetime, offering a sustainable alternative to the throwaway culture.

In this context, leather is a durable and timeless material that can be used for many years, it is, therefore, a good that contributes to the reduction of consumerism. In contrast to fast fashion, a business model based on creating disposable products, largely represented by synthetic materials that want to imitate leather, made from plastic, made from compounds derived from petroleum, a limited natural resource, which beyond the negative environmental impact during its production process, is expensive and complicated to recycle and has very poor biodegradability.

Leather Cluster Barcelona is a competitive cooperation environment to promote transversal and transformative strategic projects with the aim of boosting the leather sector ecosystem and its value chain within the framework of Shared Value policies. The cluster is an accredited entity within the Catalonia Clusters programme and has the support of Acció.

You can access the original post HERE 

Workplace safety and minimizing carbon footprint: Green Deal Leather goals 13

Workplace safety and minimizing carbon footprint: Green Deal Leather goals

Original content by: Lederpiel

On May 16, the social partners of the European leather industry, the Cotance employers’ association and the IndustriAll-Europe syndicate, held the final conference of the Green Deal Leather project in Brussels (Belgium) after two years of work. The event attracted around a hundred attendees and marked the end of a project in which the national tanning associations of Spain (Acexpiel), Portugal (APIC), France (FFTM), Hungary (MKZS), Italy (UNIC), Germany (VDL) and Austria (FVTBSL).

The main goal of the project was to know with primary data the real situation of the leather industry in aspects so relevant to advancing the circular economy such as safety in the workplace within tanneries and the carbon footprint of leather generated by the tanning activity. In this sense, during the introduction of the conference, Gustavo González-Quijano, general secretary of Cotance, commented on some of the main conclusions of the project’s research. In relation to work accidents, González-Quijano pointed out that these decreased by 16% in two years in the countries participating in the study (Italy, Spain, France, Germany, Portugal, Hungary and Austria); that is, from 1,317 accidents in 2019 to 1,102 in 2021. It should be noted that 15% of occupational accidents in the European tanning sector occur in itinere (on the way to or from work) and that more than 90% of recorded accidents are classified as «minor» in severity. Regarding the carbon footprint of leather, the results of the studies indicated that the average emissions are 8 kg of CO2 per square meter of bovine leather produced. In this sense, the majority of the carbon footprint is produced by the chemicals used in the tanning process.

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Fast fashion is out of fashion: how leather is set to become part of the solution 15

Fast fashion is out of fashion: how leather is set to become part of the solution

Original content by: Leather Naturally

As the world grapples with how we can reduce our impact on the environment and actively limit the impacts of climate change, we sit at a vital crossroads in our collective history. Leather is well positioned to be a meaningful part of the solution.

The European Commission has launched an anti-fast fashion campaign specifically designed to educate younger consumers about the negative impacts of fast fashion and to promote the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. The campaign aims to address issues of over-production associated with fast fashion and to prioritize sustainability and longevity.

The European Union is committed to serious action as part of its 2030 Vision for Textiles the cornerstone of which is sustainable fashion – designed to have a positive impact on people and the planet.

With leather’s inherent properties of durability, reparability and longevity it represents the antithesis of fast fashion. The fact that it utilizes a by-product in order to create a versatile and premium material lends an additional benefit to its key position in the circular economy.

Increasing traceability expectations together with more and more stringent regulations have entirely shifted the modern consumer landscape. Consumers are far more educated than ever before on the provenance of the goods they purchase and the fact that the impacts of their purchasing decisions can be far-reaching.

Within this context, leather takes a by-product that would otherwise need to be disposed of (with its own environmental impacts) and using responsible, traceable and verifiable production processes, offers designers and consumers high quality products that can be repaired, re-cycled and that can last a lifetime.

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Sustainability: is fashion on a turning point or is it (still) at a dead end? 17

Sustainability: is fashion on a turning point or is it (still) at a dead end?

Original content by: Lineapelle Magazine

Restarting from 42%. In other words, from the percentage  that, according to ICPEN (International Consumer Protection Enforcement Network) identifies the current green hypocrisy. That is, the fact that, online, more than 4 green slogans out of 10 “are exaggerated, false or deceitful”. Greenwashing, in one word. The occasion to take it one step further is offered by BoF (Business of Fashion), a reference portal for fashion and luxury. Unfortunately, this step does not take us much further. To the point that one question necessarily comes up: is fashion actually taking a turn, as far as 360 degrees green is concerned, or is it still at a dead end?

Turning point or dead alley?

BoF elaborates periodically a Sustainability Index. According to its latest edition, “while companies are discussing about sustainability more than ever, actions are delayed, compared with public commitments”. Much storytelling (sometimes close to propaganda), few concrete actions. “The total average score of evaluated companies was just 36 on 100, with a considerable difference between commitment and action”, BoF writes.

The relationship with suppliers

In the end, to really reach their green goals, brands need to make their production area cost-effective in a sustainable way. Which is, nevertheless, part of their universe under the “suppliers” item. With them, they should share long-term investments in technology and tools. But, BoF remarks, “suppliers complain about the fact that t18hey are often left alone, when the issue is paying for the investments. Instead of putting each season suppliers one against the other for prices, brands should establish solid partnerships, even if this could mean that the cost of production will get higher”. Luckily, it does not work like this for everyone. But that’s enough to prevent a real, determined, widespread sustainable turn from happening. And much too often, this is an unbalanced burden on the upper part of the production chain.

You can access the original post HERE

Alternatives to leather are not always what they seem 19

Alternatives to leather are not always what they seem

Original content by: One4Leather

You have probably heard of the term ‘Vegan Leather’. But what is it really? The name suggests that is derived from plant-based material but is it?

In fact, ‘vegan leather’ isn’t leather at all, nor is it always plant-based. It’s often a material made out polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyurethane (PU) and textile-polymer composite microfibers or other petroleum-based materials. In layman’s terms: plastics. Some newer alternatives are based on plant or fruit fibres, such as apples or pineapples. The traditional leather alternative materials are artificial and have been around for ages as ‘leather alternatives’, but do not possess the same properties as, nor can they be called leather, as the term is strictly defined according to ISO and other European standards as a tanned hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact.

‘Vegan’ implies ”free-from” any animal products, which makes naming a vegan material ‘leather’ misleading and even contradictory. This should, however, not be confused with ‘vegetable tanned’ leather, which refers to using tannins that originate from plants, such as the tannin in tree bark. Vegetable-tanned leather though is still genuine leather. Leather alternative materials certainly have achieved higher quality over the years, yet they have decidedly different structures and properties to genuine leather.

As an industry, we believe there is a clear difference between authentic leather and alternatives on various fronts, based on material properties. To illustrate the difference, when you do buy leather, you are choosing a material with the following characteristics:

  • Easy to clean (one of the main reasons why aviation and shared mobility are using it);
  • ‘Breathing’ properties (due to natural fiber structure of the skin);
  • Strength and durability (leather keeps its quality, year-in year-out);
  • Flexibility (leather becomes more and more flexible over time, while it still maintains its shape and strength)
  • Compostability, since leather products can be turned into compost in a matter of weeks as only 1% would remain, which is the surface treatment. This surface coating is the last challenge to make leather a 100% biodegradable material that leaves no footprint in our environment after use.

In the end, it is your choice to make: using or buying artificial material or the real deal. We just wanted to let you know what the difference is, as we believe that transparency is key in order to make a self-conscious decision in what you buy and use.

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