Categoria: Echology

Original content by: Leather International

The leather industry, a vital sector contributing significantly to global economies, is experiencing an era of profound change. Societal polarisation, driven by divergent views on environmental sustainability, animal rights, and economic priorities, is reshaping the landscape of leather production and consumption. This article explores how these polarising forces impact the leather industry, examining both the challenges and opportunities they present.

Environmental impact and sustainable practices

The environmental impact of leather production is a major point of contention. Traditional leather processing is resource-intensive, consuming vast amounts of water and energy, and generating significant waste and pollution. The tanning process, in particular, has come under scrutiny for its use of hazardous chemicals such as chromium, which can contaminate water supplies and pose health risks to workers and surrounding communities.

To address these concerns, the industry is increasingly adopting sustainable practices. Leading companies are investing in cleaner technologies, such as vegetable tanning and water-efficient processing methods. Additionally, the development of bio-based and recycled leather alternatives is gaining traction. These innovations not only reduce environmental impact but also align with the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly products.

Animal welfare and ethical considerations

The ethical treatment of animals in the leather industry is another polarising issue. Animal rights organisations, such as PETA and the Humane Society, have campaigned vigorously against the use of animal-derived materials, advocating for cruelty-free and vegan alternatives. These efforts have resonated with a growing segment of consumers who prioritise animal welfare and seek out ethical products.

In response, the industry is exploring alternatives to traditional leather. Materials such as mushroom leather (mycelium), pineapple leather (Piñatex), and lab-grown leather are gaining popularity. These innovations not only cater to ethical concerns but also offer unique textures and properties that differentiate them from conventional leather.

Economic implications and workforce considerations

The leather industry is a significant economic contributor, particularly in developing countries where it provides employment and supports livelihoods. However, the push for sustainable and ethical practices can create economic challenges. Transitioning to cleaner technologies and alternative materials often requires substantial investment, which can be burdensome for small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in the leather supply chain.

Moreover, the shift towards automation and technological advancements in leather processing may lead to job displacement. As the industry adopts more efficient production methods, there is a risk that traditional roles may become obsolete, impacting workers’ livelihoods.

Balancing economic growth and sustainability

Balancing economic growth with sustainability is a complex task. Governments and industry leaders must navigate these challenges to ensure the continued viability of the leather sector while promoting ethical and environmental responsibility. Initiatives such as public-private partnerships, financial incentives for sustainable practices, and workforce retraining programmes can help mitigate the economic impact of these transitions.

Consumer trends and market dynamics

Consumer preferences play a pivotal role in shaping the leather industry. As societal polarisation influences buying behaviour, understanding and responding to these trends is crucial for businesses. Several key trends are currently impacting the market:

1. Sustainability and Transparency: Consumers are increasingly demanding transparency in supply chains and the sustainability of products. Brands that provide clear information about their sourcing and production practices are gaining a competitive edge.
2. Ethical Consumption: The rise of ethical consumption has led to a growing market for vegan and cruelty-free products. Brands that align with these values are attracting a loyal customer base.
3. Quality and Craftsmanship: Despite the push for sustainability, there remains a strong market for high-quality, durable leather goods. Consumers appreciate the craftsmanship and longevity of well-made leather products.

Industry response and innovation

The leather industry is responding to these trends through innovation and strategic initiatives. Companies are investing in research and development to create sustainable and ethical products without compromising on quality. Collaborations with technology providers and material scientists are driving the development of novel materials and processing techniques.

Conclusion: navigating a polarised future

The leather industry stands at a crossroads, shaped by societal polarisation and the urgent need for sustainable and ethical practices. While these challenges are significant, they also present opportunities for innovation and growth. By embracing sustainable technologies, exploring alternative materials, and responding to evolving consumer preferences, the industry can navigate this polarised landscape and build a resilient and responsible future.

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Original content by: La Conceria

While “combating deforestation is a global priority” – as it obviously is – the truth is that leather should not be considered as a driver of the issue. A truth that has been repeatedly states, demonstrated and forcefully reiterated yesterday in Geneva by UNIC – Italian Tanneries. Location: the Palais des Nations. Occasion. The Deforestation-Free Trade Dialogue organized by UNECE (United Nations Economic Commission for Europe), one of the 5 “regional commissions” of the United Nations. A body whose mission is “to foster pan-European economic integration”.

Leather is not a driver of deforestation

On Nov. 13 2024, UNIC was hosted at UNECE’s Deforestation-Free Trade Dialogue, in the afternoon panel “Learning from current experiences by markets actors: possible challenges and solutions”. The experience and truth of Italian leather in relation to the implementation of the EUDR Regulation was presented and explored in depth by President Fabrizio Nuti (photo right) with a speech that from the very title set the record straight: Why leather is not a driver of deforestation: social and economic consequences”.

Three key points

Three, in particular, were the points of Nuti’s talk. First: data in hand, UNIC has shown that leather is not a cause of deforestation. Second: the EUDR could a very dangerous boomerang. The reason? By effectively blocking European tanning production, it does not prevent products made from hides coming into Europe from deforested areas. Third, the list of countries deemed to be at risk of deforestation needs to be clarified and updated, as it’s currently not yet defined.

An important opportunity

UNIC’s presence at the UNECE table, and in front of a parterre of speakers and delegates from all over the world, presented an important opportunity to give visibility and authority to its clear position on the EUDR. A position shared by the entire European tanning industry and by many other institutions (including international ones) that have expressed strong critical opinions against this regulation. Not because of what it’s trying to achieve, which is an objective shared by all. But because of the current way of working of its implementation.

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Original content by: Leather Naturally

As the world grapples with how we can reduce our impact on the environment and actively limit the impacts of climate change, we sit at a vital crossroads in our collective history. Leather is well positioned to be a meaningful part of the solution.

The European Commission has launched an anti-fast fashion campaign specifically designed to educate younger consumers about the negative impacts of fast fashion and to promote the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. The campaign aims to address issues of over-production associated with fast fashion and to prioritize sustainability and longevity.

The European Union is committed to serious action as part of its 2030 Vision for Textiles the cornerstone of which is sustainable fashion – designed to have a positive impact on people and the planet.

With leather’s inherent properties of durability, reparability and longevity it represents the antithesis of fast fashion. The fact that it utilizes a by-product in order to create a versatile and premium material lends an additional benefit to its key position in the circular economy.

Increasing traceability expectations together with more and more stringent regulations have entirely shifted the modern consumer landscape. Consumers are far more educated than ever before on the provenance of the goods they purchase and the fact that the impacts of their purchasing decisions can be far-reaching.

Within this context, leather takes a by-product that would otherwise need to be disposed of (with its own environmental impacts) and using responsible, traceable and verifiable production processes, offers designers and consumers high quality products that can be repaired, re-cycled and that can last a lifetime.

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Original content by: Lineapelle Magazine

Restarting from 42%. In other words, from the percentage  that, according to ICPEN (International Consumer Protection Enforcement Network) identifies the current green hypocrisy. That is, the fact that, online, more than 4 green slogans out of 10 “are exaggerated, false or deceitful”. Greenwashing, in one word. The occasion to take it one step further is offered by BoF (Business of Fashion), a reference portal for fashion and luxury. Unfortunately, this step does not take us much further. To the point that one question necessarily comes up: is fashion actually taking a turn, as far as 360 degrees green is concerned, or is it still at a dead end?

Turning point or dead alley?

BoF elaborates periodically a Sustainability Index. According to its latest edition, “while companies are discussing about sustainability more than ever, actions are delayed, compared with public commitments”. Much storytelling (sometimes close to propaganda), few concrete actions. “The total average score of evaluated companies was just 36 on 100, with a considerable difference between commitment and action”, BoF writes.

The relationship with suppliers

In the end, to really reach their green goals, brands need to make their production area cost-effective in a sustainable way. Which is, nevertheless, part of their universe under the “suppliers” item. With them, they should share long-term investments in technology and tools. But, BoF remarks, “suppliers complain about the fact that t18hey are often left alone, when the issue is paying for the investments. Instead of putting each season suppliers one against the other for prices, brands should establish solid partnerships, even if this could mean that the cost of production will get higher”. Luckily, it does not work like this for everyone. But that’s enough to prevent a real, determined, widespread sustainable turn from happening. And much too often, this is an unbalanced burden on the upper part of the production chain.

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