The leather industry amid societal polarisation: navigating challenges and opportunities

Original content by: Leather International

The leather industry, a vital sector contributing significantly to global economies, is experiencing an era of profound change. Societal polarisation, driven by divergent views on environmental sustainability, animal rights, and economic priorities, is reshaping the landscape of leather production and consumption. This article explores how these polarising forces impact the leather industry, examining both the challenges and opportunities they present.

Environmental impact and sustainable practices

The environmental impact of leather production is a major point of contention. Traditional leather processing is resource-intensive, consuming vast amounts of water and energy, and generating significant waste and pollution. The tanning process, in particular, has come under scrutiny for its use of hazardous chemicals such as chromium, which can contaminate water supplies and pose health risks to workers and surrounding communities.

To address these concerns, the industry is increasingly adopting sustainable practices. Leading companies are investing in cleaner technologies, such as vegetable tanning and water-efficient processing methods. Additionally, the development of bio-based and recycled leather alternatives is gaining traction. These innovations not only reduce environmental impact but also align with the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly products.

Animal welfare and ethical considerations

The ethical treatment of animals in the leather industry is another polarising issue. Animal rights organisations, such as PETA and the Humane Society, have campaigned vigorously against the use of animal-derived materials, advocating for cruelty-free and vegan alternatives. These efforts have resonated with a growing segment of consumers who prioritise animal welfare and seek out ethical products.

In response, the industry is exploring alternatives to traditional leather. Materials such as mushroom leather (mycelium), pineapple leather (Piñatex), and lab-grown leather are gaining popularity. These innovations not only cater to ethical concerns but also offer unique textures and properties that differentiate them from conventional leather.

Economic implications and workforce considerations

The leather industry is a significant economic contributor, particularly in developing countries where it provides employment and supports livelihoods. However, the push for sustainable and ethical practices can create economic challenges. Transitioning to cleaner technologies and alternative materials often requires substantial investment, which can be burdensome for small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in the leather supply chain.

Moreover, the shift towards automation and technological advancements in leather processing may lead to job displacement. As the industry adopts more efficient production methods, there is a risk that traditional roles may become obsolete, impacting workers’ livelihoods.

Balancing economic growth and sustainability

Balancing economic growth with sustainability is a complex task. Governments and industry leaders must navigate these challenges to ensure the continued viability of the leather sector while promoting ethical and environmental responsibility. Initiatives such as public-private partnerships, financial incentives for sustainable practices, and workforce retraining programmes can help mitigate the economic impact of these transitions.

Consumer trends and market dynamics

Consumer preferences play a pivotal role in shaping the leather industry. As societal polarisation influences buying behaviour, understanding and responding to these trends is crucial for businesses. Several key trends are currently impacting the market:

  1. Sustainability and Transparency: Consumers are increasingly demanding transparency in supply chains and the sustainability of products. Brands that provide clear information about their sourcing and production practices are gaining a competitive edge.
  2. Ethical Consumption: The rise of ethical consumption has led to a growing market for vegan and cruelty-free products. Brands that align with these values are attracting a loyal customer base.
  3. Quality and Craftsmanship: Despite the push for sustainability, there remains a strong market for high-quality, durable leather goods. Consumers appreciate the craftsmanship and longevity of well-made leather products.

Industry response and innovation

The leather industry is responding to these trends through innovation and strategic initiatives. Companies are investing in research and development to create sustainable and ethical products without compromising on quality. Collaborations with technology providers and material scientists are driving the development of novel materials and processing techniques.

Conclusion: navigating a polarised future

The leather industry stands at a crossroads, shaped by societal polarisation and the urgent need for sustainable and ethical practices. While these challenges are significant, they also present opportunities for innovation and growth. By embracing sustainable technologies, exploring alternative materials, and responding to evolving consumer preferences, the industry can navigate this polarised landscape and build a resilient and responsible future.

You can access the original article HERE

Leather is not a driver of deforestation

Original content by: La Conceria

While “combating deforestation is a global priority” – as it obviously is – the truth is that leather should not be considered as a driver of the issue. A truth that has been repeatedly states, demonstrated and forcefully reiterated yesterday in Geneva by UNIC – Italian Tanneries. Location: the Palais des Nations. Occasion. The Deforestation-Free Trade Dialogue organized by UNECE (United Nations Economic Commission for Europe), one of the 5 “regional commissions” of the United Nations. A body whose mission is “to foster pan-European economic integration”.

Leather is not a driver of deforestation

On Nov. 13 2024, UNIC was hosted at UNECE’s Deforestation-Free Trade Dialogue, in the afternoon panel “Learning from current experiences by markets actors: possible challenges and solutions”. The experience and truth of Italian leather in relation to the implementation of the EUDR Regulation was presented and explored in depth by President Fabrizio Nuti (photo right) with a speech that from the very title set the record straight: Why leather is not a driver of deforestation: social and economic consequences”.

Three key points

Three, in particular, were the points of Nuti’s talk. First: data in hand, UNIC has shown that leather is not a cause of deforestation. Second: the EUDR could a very dangerous boomerang. The reason? By effectively blocking European tanning production, it does not prevent products made from hides coming into Europe from deforested areas. Third, the list of countries deemed to be at risk of deforestation needs to be clarified and updated, as it’s currently not yet defined.

An important opportunity

UNIC’s presence at the UNECE table, and in front of a parterre of speakers and delegates from all over the world, presented an important opportunity to give visibility and authority to its clear position on the EUDR. A position shared by the entire European tanning industry and by many other institutions (including international ones) that have expressed strong critical opinions against this regulation. Not because of what it’s trying to achieve, which is an objective shared by all. But because of the current way of working of its implementation.

You can access the original article HERE

Durability versus fast fashion

Original content by: Lederpiel

The international leather (Cotance), footwear (CEC), fur (IFF) and wool (IWTO) associations have joined forces to defend natural and durable materials against fast fashion. These four organisations have produced a joint statement addressed to the Technical Secretariat of the Product Environmental Footprint Standards Category (Pefcr) on Clothing and Footwear (A&F). In it they express their disagreement with the current method for calculating the “service life” of clothing and shoes. According to Cotance, CEC, IFF and IWTO, the main concern is the precedent that this calculation method is setting in the broader EU regulatory context. “An immature methodology for calculating the environmental footprint of clothing and footwear products risks having highly damaging effects on the diversity and competitiveness of industries in the ecosystem”, the associations say.

What is wrong with current durability metrics for clothing and footwear? According to these four representative organisations for leather, footwear, fur and wool, they penalise natural and longer-lasting materials, and consumer products made from them.

Joint statement

The main concern lies in the unit of measurement adopted by the Technical Secretariat, which develops the methodology and the representativeness of the default values ​​for the durability of clothing and footwear products taken from Higg.

The signatories of the joint statement oppose the measure being expressed in a number of “uses” rather than in real time in “years”. This approach, taken from the Higg Product Module, “does not reflect the real lifespan of products or the opinion of all stakeholders in the sector”, explain the four associations. In addition, neither the product segmentation nor the default values ​​for service life take into account the unique properties of the different materials. “As a result, the method favours products that are purchased and thrown away after just a few ‘uses’ and penalises those designed to last much longer than the methodology can deliver,” the signatories of the joint statement say.

The organisations representing the views of the footwear, fur, leather and wool industries propose that service life be expressed in years rather than uses and that the durability characteristics that materials confer on products be appropriately integrated into product segmentation or the reference flow. “This change would provide a more accurate and meaningful assessment of a product’s lifespan, helping both consumers and manufacturers make informed decisions,” they say.

You can access the original article HERE

The tanning sector must see itself as a circular economy system

Original content by: Real Leather

The circular economy is a sustainable and innovative economic model that seeks to redefine the traditional linear “take, make, dispose” model of production and consumption. Instead, it promotes a system where resources are used for as long as possible, the maximum value is extracted from them while they’re in use, and products and materials are then recovered and regenerated at the end of their useful life.

How does the circular economy work?

The circular economy can be visualized as a loop. These are the steps to make that loop as smooth as possible.

Firstly, design out waste and pollution: This starts with the design of products. In a circular economy, products are designed to be durable, easy to repair, and recyclable. Leather comes from a by-product. If not used it would be wasted.

Keep products and materials in use. Create products that last longer, and then find ways to repurpose or recycle them rather than discarding them. This could involve creating sharing platforms, remanufacturing, and recycling.

Regenerate natural systems. Restore and regenerate natural capital, for example, by returning valuable nutrients to the soil or purifying air and water.

Benefits to the leather business

Cost savings. By recycling and reusing materials, businesses can reduce procurement costs. Leather as an alternative to forever plastics makes sound ecological sense.

New revenue streams. By repurposing leather, fashion and practical application of leather can be discovered which in turn will find new markets and revenue opportunities.

Innovation. rethinking products and processes can drive innovation and differentiation in the market.

Resilience. A circular approach can make supply chains more resilient by reducing dependency on scarce resources.

Improved brand image. By using leather that would otherwise be wasted we can show commitment to sustainability and enhance a company’s reputation and customer loyalty.

You can access the original post HERE 

EU leather and footwear industry demands improvements to legislative framework

Original content by: Lederpiel

The European Platform of Chemical Manufacturing Industries (CheMI) has signed a letter demanding regulatory improvements for the legislative framework for chemicals in the European Union. CheMI represents more than 300,000 European companies, 14 industry associations (including the European Footwear Confederation (CEC) and the Confederation of National Associations of Tanners of the European Community (Cotance)), 3 million employees and a turnover of 500 billion euros. The letter focuses on four main demands:

  • Consider the impact on downstream users when regulating chemicals. This can be achieved by conducting comprehensive impact assessments that include the entire value chain and establishing viable transition periods so that companies can anticipate and implement changes.
  • Improve market surveillance to develop competition. All chemicals imported into the EU must comply with current legislation and, therefore, strengthened surveillance is necessary to achieve a level playing field.
  • The competitiveness of European companies must be a priority.
  • Promote better regulation. Duplicate and overlapping requirements, as well as complex regulations, should be avoided to alleviate unnecessary burdens on businesses.

Likewise, CheMI calls for including all stakeholders in the value chain in the development of impact assessments on new legislation or in the preparation of secondary legislation and guidance for law enforcement.

TCLF industries sign industrial agreement for the EU

Representatives of the European textile, clothing, leather and footwear (TCLF) industries have called on European Union policymakers to commit to protecting their sectors and the quality of the jobs they generate. To protect this industrial network from problems such as global competition, energy prices, increased legislation or the aging of its workforce, the interlocutors of these sectors have signed an industrial agreement with seven main demands:

  • Ensure a just transition while protecting jobs.
  • Develop a recycling and training program for workers that guarantees qualified professionals and attracts new generations.
  • Promote social dialogue and participation with social partners.
  • Ensure a sensible, stable and coherent regulatory environment for European industries, improving single market regulations and continuing to maintain competitiveness.
  • Access to energy and raw materials.
  • Free and fair trade to ensure equal conditions.
  • Increase in demand for organic products in the EU.

You can access the original post HERE and HERE

Workplace safety and minimizing carbon footprint: Green Deal Leather goals

Original content by: Lederpiel

On May 16, the social partners of the European leather industry, the Cotance employers’ association and the IndustriAll-Europe syndicate, held the final conference of the Green Deal Leather project in Brussels (Belgium) after two years of work. The event attracted around a hundred attendees and marked the end of a project in which the national tanning associations of Spain (Acexpiel), Portugal (APIC), France (FFTM), Hungary (MKZS), Italy (UNIC), Germany (VDL) and Austria (FVTBSL).

The main goal of the project was to know with primary data the real situation of the leather industry in aspects so relevant to advancing the circular economy such as safety in the workplace within tanneries and the carbon footprint of leather generated by the tanning activity. In this sense, during the introduction of the conference, Gustavo González-Quijano, general secretary of Cotance, commented on some of the main conclusions of the project’s research. In relation to work accidents, González-Quijano pointed out that these decreased by 16% in two years in the countries participating in the study (Italy, Spain, France, Germany, Portugal, Hungary and Austria); that is, from 1,317 accidents in 2019 to 1,102 in 2021. It should be noted that 15% of occupational accidents in the European tanning sector occur in itinere (on the way to or from work) and that more than 90% of recorded accidents are classified as “minor” in severity. Regarding the carbon footprint of leather, the results of the studies indicated that the average emissions are 8 kg of CO2 per square meter of bovine leather produced. In this sense, the majority of the carbon footprint is produced by the chemicals used in the tanning process.

You can access the original post HERE

 

 

Fast fashion is out of fashion: how leather is set to become part of the solution

Original content by: Leather Naturally

As the world grapples with how we can reduce our impact on the environment and actively limit the impacts of climate change, we sit at a vital crossroads in our collective history. Leather is well positioned to be a meaningful part of the solution.

The European Commission has launched an anti-fast fashion campaign specifically designed to educate younger consumers about the negative impacts of fast fashion and to promote the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. The campaign aims to address issues of over-production associated with fast fashion and to prioritize sustainability and longevity.

The European Union is committed to serious action as part of its 2030 Vision for Textiles the cornerstone of which is sustainable fashion – designed to have a positive impact on people and the planet.

With leather’s inherent properties of durability, reparability and longevity it represents the antithesis of fast fashion. The fact that it utilizes a by-product in order to create a versatile and premium material lends an additional benefit to its key position in the circular economy.

Increasing traceability expectations together with more and more stringent regulations have entirely shifted the modern consumer landscape. Consumers are far more educated than ever before on the provenance of the goods they purchase and the fact that the impacts of their purchasing decisions can be far-reaching.

Within this context, leather takes a by-product that would otherwise need to be disposed of (with its own environmental impacts) and using responsible, traceable and verifiable production processes, offers designers and consumers high quality products that can be repaired, re-cycled and that can last a lifetime.

You can access the original post HERE

Leather Cluster Barcelona publishes a dictionary of natural hides imperfections

Original content by: Lederpiel

Animal hide is very complex, proteinaceous in nature, heterogeneous and extremely irregular. The quality of hides is conditioned by several factors that may have affected the animal’s life and may lead to some type of imperfection or defect: parasites, chafing, scars, marks, etc. On the other hand, during the leather tanning process, some irregularities may also occur that affect the quality of the leather.

With the purpose of providing information to the leather industry in this area, Leather Cluster Barcelona has worked for months to develop an exhaustive catalog that serves as a tool for professionals in the sector in identifying the types of imperfections or defects that it may have.

The Dictionary of Natural Skin Imperfections and Production Irregularities presented by Leather Cluster Barcelona contains a compilation of the main imperfections and defects identified in the leather. Specifically, up to twenty-four different types of imperfections have been characterized. The document includes the list of imperfections (name and key characteristics), the coding, the image of the reference hide associated with the defect (identifying the areas of presence of the defect) and detailed examples of each one. Descriptively, each sheet has information about the area (identification of the main location where the defect is usually located), an observations section with clarifications, explanations and details associated with the imperfection or defect, the difficulty of detection (qualitative measure of the degree of difficulty in detecting this defect by the specialist), the impact of the defect on production (indicates the severity of the defect on the finished product and the frequency (estimation of how often the defect is present: one in five hides, one out of ten, one out of fifty or one out of every hundred).

You can read the Dictionary of Natural Skin Imperfections and Production Irregularities HERE

And so you can access the original post HERE

Sustainability: is fashion on a turning point or is it (still) at a dead end?

Original content by: Lineapelle Magazine

Restarting from 42%. In other words, from the percentage  that, according to ICPEN (International Consumer Protection Enforcement Network) identifies the current green hypocrisy. That is, the fact that, online, more than 4 green slogans out of 10 “are exaggerated, false or deceitful”. Greenwashing, in one word. The occasion to take it one step further is offered by BoF (Business of Fashion), a reference portal for fashion and luxury. Unfortunately, this step does not take us much further. To the point that one question necessarily comes up: is fashion actually taking a turn, as far as 360 degrees green is concerned, or is it still at a dead end?

Turning point or dead alley?

BoF elaborates periodically a Sustainability Index. According to its latest edition, “while companies are discussing about sustainability more than ever, actions are delayed, compared with public commitments”. Much storytelling (sometimes close to propaganda), few concrete actions. “The total average score of evaluated companies was just 36 on 100, with a considerable difference between commitment and action”, BoF writes.

The relationship with suppliers

In the end, to really reach their green goals, brands need to make their production area cost-effective in a sustainable way. Which is, nevertheless, part of their universe under the “suppliers” item. With them, they should share long-term investments in technology and tools. But, BoF remarks, “suppliers complain about the fact that t18hey are often left alone, when the issue is paying for the investments. Instead of putting each season suppliers one against the other for prices, brands should establish solid partnerships, even if this could mean that the cost of production will get higher”. Luckily, it does not work like this for everyone. But that’s enough to prevent a real, determined, widespread sustainable turn from happening. And much too often, this is an unbalanced burden on the upper part of the production chain.

You can access the original post HERE

Edition full of vitality and content for Lineapelle 103

Original content by: Lineapelle

Despite the complex economic situation, LINEAPELLE 103, held at Fiera Milano Rho from 20 to 22 February 2024, celebrates the conclusion of a particularly vital edition that opens up glimmers of confidence for the leather, luxury, and design supply chain.

Twenty-five thousand three hundred seventy-six sector operators (up on the February and September 2023 editions) animated with their interest and search for novelty the stands of the 1,167 exhibitors at LINEAPELLE who showcased collections and projects (reference season: Spring-Summer 2025) characterised by strong innovative research and a clear propensity for diversification of markets, proposals, and destinations.

The influx of foreign operators was significant (39% of the total), with a prevalence of buyers from France, Spain, Germany, Great Britain, Turkey, the United States, and China.

The vitality of LINEAPELLE 103 and its ability to open up new horizons even in a particularly worrying market moment, found expression and (great) interest in all the contents that enriched the exhibition experience, starting with the success of the six Lineapelle Designers Edition fashion shows. Very positive feedback also for the first edition of Lineapelle Interiors / Leather Duets, a business culture exhibition that staged a sequence of installations, each of which was represented by an exclusive leather design project shared between a made-in-Italy leather manufacturer and a furniture company. There was also great involvement for In The Making Atto II (an interconnected and multidisciplinary space where visitors to LINEAPELLE were able to take part in a series of craft workshops using leather) and for the second edition of the Science Based Fashion Talks, opportunities for debate and sharing aimed at discovering and defining green strategies for the entire supply chain.

A very profitable edition for Splenda Leather
Splenda Leather attends all editions of Lineapelle in Milan. It is a perfect occasion to perceive new trends in terms of tanning process and leather design.

It is also a great opportunity to strengthen ties with our clients and suppliers. To all of you, thank you very much for visiting us and receiving us. We return home with the firm conviction that, despite the uncertain economic times that many industrial sectors are going through, the health of our industry is strong and we have a good future ahead of us.

You can read the original press release HERE